Big CC Turbo kit Install Inf

Hayabusa Stage 1 Race Turbo Kit Instructions

Disclaimer Statement.

Big CC Racing accept no responsibility for damage to persons or engines or property resulting from the fitment of a Big CC Hybrid Turbo System. The correct install & the correct tune of this Turbo kit is solely the responsibility of the purchaser unless he has had the kit fitted at Big CC Racing who apply a workmanship warranty only! Not an engine warranty.

In agreeing to buy this turbo system you are stating that you have the necarssey skill to organise its install & set it up correctly & that its fitness for purpose lies in the hands of you . If you lack that skill then you should not attempt to install it yourself. Please find a competent motorcycle engineer to do so or do not purchase.  

Parts list Typically for Stage 1 race Turbo kit

GT35R turbo

321 Stainless header set

8 x header screws

Dual dump pipes

Tial 46mm Race Gate with gaskets

Turbo oil drain fitting

Turbo Oil feed fitting (restricted to 1.5mm)

2 & 1/4 " Up pipe polished with BOV weld fitting

Tial 50mm BOV 

2 Samco hoses for up pipe with 4x 50/70mm Jubilee clips

Race Plenum Chamber with o ring kit & screws

4x samco hoses with 8 50/70mm jubilee clips to throttle bodies

2x banjo fittings for hose tube under plenum

Billet fuel rail

4x 5mm screws for rail

4x 750cc or 1000cc Injectors (only available with stand alone ECU)

Bosch 044 Fuel pump

Aeromotive regulator with dual entries

3x Aeromotive fittings dash 6

Goodridge fuel filter

Stainless plenum straps with short button head screws

1 way bleed valves

20x cable ties  

Preliminary checks

Check all parts off via the parts list.

Check & inspect all parts for damage

It is your responsibility to clean all items inc fabricated & machined parts like fuel rail, up pipe & header etc to ensure free from debris & servicable for use. 

Big CC Racing accept no responsibilty for your failure to adequatley clean & check fitness for purpose of parts prior to use. 

Prior to install

Remove all bodywork from the bike & drain the fuel tank fully & ventilate it to remove all petrol vapour prior to welding work. Once drained & ventilated there are 2 steel weld fittings that require welding to the underside. The dash 8 fuel outlet is welded to the lowest point of the tank or flanged to where the original outlet is & the dash 6 return is welded to the return fitting on earlier models or the outlet tag on later models. Remove the sump pan & weld the dash 10 aluminium weld adaptor to it for the turbo drain return & refit. Think ground clearance with the the fittings as to your location. Koenig pans weld to front face r/h side suggested

Remove the Airbox, remove the exhaust remove the pairs.Remove the radiator. Carry out lambda sensor mod on ECU plug (See Dynojet)

Drain the engine oil, remove the oil cooler, remove the oil filter & remove the plug from the oil filter housing. Very important as the oil cooler is not refitted.

The front of the engine locate the steel oil tube from the left lower side going up to the front. behind it to the engine is an assembly casting, remove this casting with an air saw or grinder & gently bend the tube into the engine tighter. Do not crease it. Modification of the tube rubber is also required.

Under the head stock of the frame are 2 tubes running left to right via the centre casting above & to the front of the cam cover. Remove the left hand tube with a hack saw or air saw. This will allow the up pipe to pass through the hole to the plenum. 

Between the turbo & header use exhaust sealant paste. The allen heads will require a cut down allen key with an 8mm ring spanner to tighten & turn them. The seal between the header & turbo must be very tight so not to come loose. Please ensure the turbo oil feed is situated at the top & the drain is at the bottom. if not slacken all turbo screws & rotate round accordingly. Leave the compressor cover loose so correct alignment later can be achieved with the up pipe.  

Bolt the wastegate up with the gaskets etc to the flange from the turbo. If the boost banjo fitting hole is too close to the header pipe it will need rotating ot of the way so to avoid melting of the rubber pipe that would then be catastrophic. Rotating the base can be done by stripping the spring out internally & undoing the nut underneath the diaphram. Ensure correct reassembly of the gate once you have positined the gate boost tube  outlet in a safe position. 

The dump pipes & wastegate etc can be installed as a complete asembly leaving the compressor cover loose. We advise new exhaust gaskets. The lower header screw set we advise the use of traditonal head bolt with the use of a cut down 13mm thin 12 point ring spanner to get in tight. the top screws we advise the use of allen heads. Ensure tightness but use copper slip. Compressor cover screws can be got at through an extension bar & socket from the right side once alignment with the up pipe & plenum has been achieved.

Remove the throttle bodies & with a small drill enlarge the brass vac pipe holes for improved signal strength. Also carry out the enlargement of the injector holes with the necassery drill size. The 1000cc injectors will require a spacer block making between the bodies & the rail. We suggest the modification of the plastic blocks down to the required size as they have location plugs. Give it a try, if not use the RC spacers supplied.

The 750cc Injectors have supplied top hats that will work fine at the rails standard height. Once happy refit the throttle bodies & the 4 into 1 map sensor tube assembly fit as per the diagram with the one way bleed valves so the stock ECU map sensor does not detect boost. This is not required with a stand alone ECU. 

The plenum is assembled using the 2 types of o ring. 2mm o ring seals the lids while the 1.6mm o ring seals the Body spigots through the plenum to the bellmouths. Use superglue to join when cut. Please ensure tightness when joining the spigots & bellmouths together on the plenum. A rubber glove can give added grip & a sealant can be used.

When fitting the plenum the rear upper engine mount screws must be removed & the castle nut slackened on the right side to allow for the plenum strap. The left side engine casting must be cut by the thickness of the strap to allow for the strap to be inserted as a sliding fit. An air saw or hack saw should be used with dressing by a thin needle file. Ensure inlets are covered during sawing to avoid debris doing damage.

The air temp sensor fits into the central threaded hole of the plenum. Use the supplied button screws for securing it down. Large drilled hole for the frame